Not that I'm feeling jealous of the other ABS threads, but when I turn the ignition, the light doesn't flash with the sound of the pump/relay.... it just stays on static, once the car is started it also remains. What would be causing this? The brakes work fine, I'm not too sure if the ABS is cutting at all yet, as I haven't tested it. Mine is of the early Bendix system, touch wood it hasn't completeley failed!! But is it likely too with this lighting issue? Or will it just be a simple sensor problem?

Old thread I know - but my Mi16 is doing the same thing. Bendix system, Compressor appears to be working correctly, ABS light on continually, no ABS.

I plan to;

a ) Renew corroded rear brake pipes !
b ) Clean/test driveshaft sensors.
c ) Clean/test wheel sensors with a multimeter.

If none of the above works I'll;

d ) Change the ABR (just bought a new one off Ebay).
e ) Check the valve arrangements on the master cylinder are OK.

If that hasn't sorted it it, or there's a problem with the master cylinder that will be costly to replace, the ABS system will be junked as explained elsewhere on here.

Any pointers on the diagnosis process would be welcomed .....

You can read off the fault codes for the ABS system on this type yourself using a peice of wire. After you have read the code this will give you some idea of what is causing the problem and the area to investigate. I would not change the ABS pump as in the 16 years i have worked on these it has never been the bendix pump that has failed.

Incidentally which type of bendix system is it:

1: Integral system (with abs block on the padal assembly where the brake servo would be)
2: Addonex (has a brake servo and master cylinder with an additional pump unit with all the brake lins feeding into it)

The method for reading the codes is:

1: locate the grey 2 pin connector in the engine fuse housing next to the O/S upper engine mount.
2:Take a peice of wire long enough to reach into the car.
3: turn on the ignition
4: Put the wire into the terminal of the 2 pin connector (only one has a terminal)
5:Sitting in the car, touch the wire to earth for a second.
6:The abs light will flash, count the flashes, this indicates the code.

I.e: code twelve would read. 1 flash, pause, then 2 further flashes.

code 12 is the start code and code 11 is the end code anything in between is a fault code.

If you let me know the code i will look it up for you.

Hope this helps...

I've replaced a broken sensor on my 405, but the ABS light is still on and I cant find any fault with the system (all sensors intact and rings clean) do I need to clear the fault memory or something?

Yes you will need to clear the faults on this, If you are running a phase 1 with bendix abs then this can be done in the same way as mentioned about test in the system previously, but i cant quite remember the procedure at the mo, i will look it up and post tomorrow for you.

Well - the car is back and MOT'd.

Brakes really well with the mods (Group N Brembo discs/DS2500's front - OEM discs/pads rear) , ABS still non functional.

It's been traced to a faulty o/s sensor, but Peugeot still want £150 for one so I'll take my time and source one.

I do need to source a load compensator as well - which I'll do before I change the sensor.

I'll post back when I've done something

GSF sell the load compensator, £70 ish from memory as I bought one a month or so ago. It was even a genuine Pug one!

My ABS light comes on sometimes, and then goes out the next day. I've cleaned the front sensors and toothed wheels, I'll have to do the rears too and see if that sorts it. How do you test the sensors with a multimeter? Do you just test that there isn't an open ciruit or something?

On those type of sensors they are an AC generator, so you can check the resistance of the sensors with a multimeter on OHMS, as long as you know the reading off of a good sensor, and also you can disconnect the sensor, put a multimeter across the two terminals, with meter set to AC voltage, spin the wheel and you should get an output if it is picking up.