Righto let see if anyone can send me in the right direction with these

Getting Code 44: Knock Detection

Also Code 66: No. 1 Cylinder reference sensor

A bit of background:

Car is ok for a few hundred miles, then with no apparent cause (apart from possibly if oil temp goes above 90, cant be 100% sure this happens every time tho) tell tale symptoms return:

A louder boomy exhaust note
A sound almost like a rattle from the engine under moderate acceleration say 3000 through 4500 in 4th/5th (noise can not be head at any other time).
Pulling power slightly down in the same rev range tho once past pulls hard again.

Next time engine is started after this, ECU light stays on after ignition for several seconds indicating a fault recorded. These are as above.

I believe the knock recorded fault is genuine due to the 'rattling' noise from the engine when problem occours.

So, does anyone know what Cylinder reference sensor is? and is it likely to cause knock?

I've got a spare engine so if people can give me a clue on items to replace then I should have enough working parts to fix it.

Cheers

cam sensor

Cheers, that confirms what my googling since posting has suggested!

Looked on service box and found this ->

Click to view attachment

But I cant seem to find anything like it by looking where it suggests (tho it is dark ) is it buried deep into the engine bay? Haynes manual is worst that useless.

Tell a lie, there is something like that, it is blue, but appears to go into the top of the thermostat housing!?

Thats it, the blue one, end of the inlet cam / top of the thermostat housing. If you need a spare one I may have one but would be the weekend before I can check and post it.

Cool, as I say I have a spare engine, so hopefully I'll be able to pilfer it off that, if not then there will be a PM flying your way New one from pug is pushing £100!

So do you reckon this would cause knock? From what I've read up on this sensor controls the timing of fuel injection to the inlet valve, and if fubared ECU returns to default mode.

could well do, its a sequential injection and ignition system not batch fired.

As welshpug says, its definetely possible, get it changed!

Cheers guys' 200 miles in and is ok so far *touch wood* even through the nice hot weekend we've been having After I fixed the darned leaking power steering and had my second puncture in as many months that is!

Argh! don't know if its related or not but the car is now missing in first gear, get to about 3k revs and turns into a bucking bronco. 3rd 4th and 5th seem to be fine, although I certainly wasnt gunning it.

Only started to happen this morning after heavy rain last night and a bit of a bodge on the brake pedal switch last night (will be getting a replacement later) but cant think that would have any bearing?

Any ideas would be muchly appreciated as I have to drive 40 miles home later today

ECU's got faults recorded so will see if I can get them off when it stops raining, a 30 second on/off with the battery helped for a shrotwile but obviously a fault somewhere!!!?

In other news, saw a red phase 1 this morning on the M6 by the thelwall, coudlnt see too much as I was keeping tabs on a copper whilst praying the car didnt start missing on the motorway! Just wondered if it was anyones on ere? First one I have seen in these parts in 28 thousand miles!

SH*T DAMNIT AND BALLS.

Sorry, Cylinder reference sensor again. One that I replaced was from a 270k engine so shouldnt really be a shock. Do I believe the fault code tho as the sympdoms are totally differenct fromt he first time!? Also no knock detected this time.

Ok so got the wrest of the week off work to try and fix it. Car wouldnt even start from work, finally did after uch swaering. Went a few yeard and died again. Reset the ECU and got the 40 miles home with no further glitch or ECU error recorded. I know its onyl a matter of time before it happens again tho. Guna try swapping the coils and the ref sensor again.

5 thousand mile old champion EONS have a greyish coating on the electrodes. Some sites say this is normal and others indicative of a lean fuel/over advanced ignition. Opinions appreciated.

James.

How exactly is it possible to see the fault codes from the ecu?

My diagnostic light stays on a couple of seconds after startup too.

OK I found something in another thread about the aussifrogs way. Not sure it would work on mine though

In the plastic box behind the abs pump on the left hand side of the engine bay, there is a green diagnostics connector, simply take pin number 2 to to ground, hold it connected to ground for about 6 seconds, then look at the ecu warning light, it should flash a couple of sequences of lights, all explained here.

You just keep holding pin 2 to ground again after each sequence to read the next. The codes are explained here. I don't know what management the T16 uses so you may have to look elsewhere into what the codes translate to.
All discussed here.