Left the car standing for a about a week and now when I come to start it, put key in, switch to position II where I would normally put the code into the keypad and the keypad lights up with both the red and green led's. (Normal operation being red light flashing until key turned to position II, then solid red light, enter code then solid green light.) I did not enter the code wrong or anything like that, but it now seems to be permanently stuck like this. Car will turn over but not fire

Had the problem a couple of times in the past, mainly in damp weather but after much swearing and flicking of the central locking/pulling the battery on and off it has eventually sorted itself out.

Not this time tho.. Have been through every possible permutation of flicking the central locking, battery disconnections, etc etc blah blah. Left the battery disconnected for well over 24 hours, still hadn’t sorted itself out when I put it back on, left the key in the ignition for over an hour to see if reset itself, but no joy.

I've head on some derv models that there can be issue with an electrical connection on the fuel pump, however most have what I have read regarding this points to a different set-up on the 405, compared to say a 306 derv which.

I have a scrap car which I know had the keypad disabled in some way but not sure how!?

Anyone else unfortunate enough to get this problem? Hopefully someone who also knows a nice easy fix? Or anyone with wiring Diagrams? Haynes is typically rubbish!

Said to myself so many times I would have to disable it before it caused me problems. Doh.

I had exactly the same problem with my Le Mans every time the battery went flat. Was given the solution by my local Peugeot dealer(the only guy left who knows anything about 405's).
Remove the black cover from the remote locking sensor in the roof, inside should be a multi-pin connector. There's about 4 wires going into the back. Get a test lamp and touch the connectors, It's the green one and the brown/orange ones. Can't remember which way round but one locks the car and resets the system and the other unlocks it.
I have since purchased a solar panel charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter to keep the battery charged as this can be a bit of an a*** ache having to repeatedly do it.
Hope this works for you.

Cheers Andy

Sounds worth a go! I have faffed around shorting these pins to lock/unlock the car in the past (my remote fob only opens the car, not closes it, quite annoying but thats a different story!) didnt realise the spare one resets it tho! Thought it was a bit odd that it didnt do anything, or so I thought , will give it a whirl. Many thanks

Good luck.
The other thing I was told is they don't like being locked/unlocked by different methods. So if you lock with the key then unlock with the key etc.
Temperamental but thats why we love em

1000 grumbles, didn't work well it 'reset' the keypad back to flashing red light but still when ignition turned to position 2, flashing red light still changes to red and green solid on Most annoying as I need to put my day2day car in for repair so could really do with the car!

Any ideas anyone? Anyone got a wiring diagram? Don't mind taking it to an auto spark but would like to give them a head-start so as it costs as little as possible!

Must be people who've come across similar issues when putting the phase II engine in 205's etc?

Is that keypad immo folding type, like in 406 models? Those tend to break cables near keypad because of constant folding of the keypad. And as far as I know, that immo can be disabled (atleast in 106, 306, 406 models) just removing wiring connector from keypad while engine is running. If immo is wanted back in use just reconnect that connector when engine is running. After that it is possible to have immobilizer turned back on occasionally if you disconnect battery for long time, then just reconnect keypad etc.

Hi thanks, nope its not the same as that, is got a flip lid and is under the center armrest. Have heard you can disable it with engine running, but cant get that far! the immobiliser was working before I left the car for 6 days, and battery still has charge now even after a few weeks.

Righto have tried swapping ecu and keypad from spares car, still no luck, although that may have had the same problem as was bypassed somehow. I've tried looking for how but can see anything obvious.

Had the RAC out as a last ditch effort for a cheap fix. He spent an hour on the phone with someone checkign through databooks, no joy.

Got no money to get it looked at being after christmas also my daily hack needs work before I can even consider putting more money into the 405, so looking for clues to look at it myself. Otherwise its just going to sit and die a slow and painful death

Come on guys, cant believe im the only one who has had this problem?

Question:

Can I use an ECU off another car which uses MP 3.2 eg something with a 2.0 Turbo, but does not have an immobiliser?

Obviously the mappoing will be different, so is it as easy as swapping a chip over from the MI ecu to any other MP 3.2?

Cheers

Okey dokey then...

After the poor car standing for 6, with only the occasional effort to get her going resulting in frustration, and a good 2 hours worth of the RAC bloke scratching his head. I gave up and rang the nearest auto spark who recon he could sort it for 40 quid, very good.

Started putting the car back together ready to call a tow truck (fixtures and fittings only), thought id give it one more go... ignition point two, lo and behold only the one red light showing (correct operation), unfortunately not enough charge in the battery after standing for so long to start the engine.

Well I thought, takign the battery off for a couple hours to charge is just going to cock it up agian right when it seems right, but gave it a go anyway.

Damned thing worked and fired first time. (tried the supposed solution of disconnecting the keypad so I dont need it any more and the engine just cut out, so had to plug back in)

What have I learned here?

1)French cars, electrical gremlins = complete understatement..

2)How do you fix keypad immobiliser issue? Wait 6 months and threaten to put the car on a tow truck.

3) Pulling the keypad while the engine is running as a way to remove the need to enter immobiliser code - does not work (unless theres some particular method?)

Now, down to the nearest stainless exhaust place to repair the self terminating center box. From there just needs a serious oil leak fixing and hopefully just a clutch cable. Anyone had experience of Skip Brown, if so do they do serving for 'normal' road cars or only specialise in tuning?

Typical French electrics lol! Glad it's going again

Are you a member of the 205gtidrivers forum? I'm sure a few people on there would know the way you get rid of the keypad immobiliser, might be worth a look?