Could you add a few pics from other angles?

How does the long rod connect to that shiny lever?
Have the mounting points on the shifter fork been moved to different locations? I can see that one point on the gearbox lever has been relocated - is that supposed to reduce left-right movement of the gear stick?

Many thanks in advance!

Have put your questions to the guy that modified the bits. Not sure how it all goes together yet

Have some more pics for you but imageshack is not uploading them properly for some reason. Will put them up ASAP

More pics





I'm going to ring the guy today to get instructions on installing and setting up. Will put up the deets after

Righto. The two short linkages in the bottom pic are just the old ones he sent back. The rose joint on it's own is just a spare as he had to buy them in pairs.

The extended section on the arm is to shorten the front to back throw (I think that's what that arm controls?) and I should drill 3 holes where I want them to allow adjustability.

He has already setup the side to side throw to be shorter (as you have noted) but that is also adjustable.

The long linkage has the standard joint at one end as I would have to cut off the ball on the end of the selector arm (right word for it?) on the g/box and weld something else on to allow a rose joint to be fitted. He has said it wouldn't be worth it.

Well, I would disagree to his comment on the long rod.
The stock plastic internal bushing is crap and will not last long. Moreover, it will pop off at the worst of moments and you then will lose ALL gears or be stuck in one gear depending on when the thing pops off.
Since you have made the effort to switch to rose joints, you should have also changed that stock cap - at least with a Grp N cap which has no plastic bushing and has a lock which prevents the rod from popping off.
I am using the Grp N long rod with locks on both ends - like this



Definitely a better solution than keeping the stock cap with plastic bushing!

Sub-frame in and pas ram back on. Gonna try get the engine/box/t-fer case back together as one unit tomorrow.

I'll check with my brother about the g/box end of the longer rod. Or I'll just cable tie it on

Subframe back in and g/box + t/fer case bolted to the motor.

I just received a pair of my own GGA coilovers. They are fitted with helper springs and blue top pans. No black pans were supplied!!!
Did you specifically ask for those to be included?
I will be unable to fit them with the stock top hats unless i get those black pans.

lovin that ball upgrade in the first pic. what ever part thats called my standard rubber has split how much did that cost 2 fabricate.? i suspect it cuts down some of the friction over the standard item ?

I didn't request them Rodi but they may have been included as the guy knew I would have to use the standard top hats until eccentrics are made.

The dude said it would be about $140NZD to do all the work on the linkages. I tried to pay him a few times but he said "We'll talk about payment when the car is running" I told him that could be a while but he said it's a project and he know's exactly how it is.

It's just a really big ball bearing welded on. I could take a measurement for you next time I'm there if you like?

yea that would great thanks fella.

Cool. Hopefully that will be this weekend. Will see if I can nab my brothers verniers.

And what was the name of the guy? I assume it's a person at GAZ?

i would have to agree with rodi on the long arm. using the standard plastic bush is akin 4 failure surely it would be best to send it back with the spare rose joint and have it amended then cut off the ball joint stub drill a hole and fix with the appropiate tackle .

^probably. I'll ask my brother, he will have a good idea. I was there in the weekend but totally forgot to measure the size of the ball bearing for you sorry.

Rodi, I was dealing with Warren Gazzard - wcgazz@hotmail.com

Interior of the second 4bie is now stripped. Just have to decide whether or not I want to keep the centre console. Probably not but it hardly weighs anything.

Many thanks cammy, that is the person i also deal with - one of the best fellows i've ever dealt with!
We've sorted the issue and i already received the black top pans for front coilovers a few days ago.

Brilliant! Yeah he's a good geezer.

Righto, so starting back on this in earnest now.

My nrother had an awesome idea to make it easy to get the selector sorted when it drops down:



Also big thanks to him for helping me get the motor back in. 4wd gear definitely made it more difficult



So it's now sitting on it's lovely new bakerbm mounts. Also got the linkages in there:



No slop and adjustable throw for more epicness. Might use some cable ties as a locking mechanism for the standard cup on the long rod

To be continued

Further progress today.

Clutch and throttle connected
starter motor in
Plastic union thing on the back of the motor on
various hoses conected
Keepers installed. I put them at the top as the threads on the body stop the plastic spacer moving freely
driveshafts in.

Easiest way to insert/remove the shafts is to take the nut off the ball joint, put a jack under the stud and jack it until the wishbone is almost - but not quite - level and then hit the wishbone with a big hammer. Jacking it up like that means you don't need to use much force with the hammer. Then loosen the two nuts holding the strut in the tower and you are free to move the strut around. Makes it a peice of piss to get the shafts in. I have the steering rod ends disconnected too which will have helped.

Got a bunch of the loom connected up today. Didn't get as much done as I'd wanted to thought as I had to fashion up a new T peice that goes in the LHM reservoir lid for the cit. Mine fell apart completely

Continuing on with this:

406 STDT brakes:









Old vs new





Just need some pads now

Getting there

Victory nears!





This is the crap at the front:





^These look like they are for the headlights but the headlights and indicators etc are already plug in with the standard loom... Not sure what these or the relays are for.

Some tidying to do and then put the rad in etc but mostly done I think

Also, standard rims are a no go:



I've been told the italian ones have more clearance but it's no biggie as I haz:





Anyone know how the width/offset compares on these to the standard wheels?

They're P24 offset

my mum's 405 has spare headlamp plugs as well, I think they would be for the Single beam H4 units not the twin beam high spec headlamps.

your stock wheels would probably fit with a 10mm spacer, 283's fit under standard 1.9 205 wheels which are ET19

The thing is that this wiring looks like it's been hacked in.... badly. Doesn't look standard.

Easier just to swap the tyres to the motoforms. Cheaper and I then have 7" wide wheels rather than 6". Reckon they are lighter too.